ST/RS Boost Leaks Discussed
So your tuner says you have a boost leak, now what? These cars are getting older, which means that leaks and maintenance issues are going to become more common. Turbo system components can be a bit complicated when trying to diagnose boost issues, so where should you even start looking? We have tried to take some of the guesswork out by compiling a list of the most popular boost leak culprits that we come across almost daily on these cars to help narrow down your search!
If you have a STOCK TURBO car here are a few tell-tell signs that you have a boost leak:
- If you are running a similar setup as a friend in the same area/elevation, but are seeing much lower boost than them, chances are you have a boost leak
- Check your logs, look at WGDC Actual. If that number is at 100% the entire pull and you are seeing lower than normal boost pressures. chances are you have a boost leak.
- At Sea Level you should peak in the 22-24 psi range and then the boost should taper down toward right at 14psi at 6000 rpms. These numbers will be slightly lower at higher elevations. Cars at higher altitude may see boost levels 2-3 psi lower than this.
So what can you look for? The most common causes for boost leaks that we come across on the ST/RS platform are as follows:
- Loose charge pipe clamp
- Stripped charge pipe clamp that feels tight but is not
- Metal solenoid plate installed UNDER BOV rather than over the top
- Leaking O ring on the map sensor on the intercooler
- Leaking sound symposer delete
- Loose vacuum line
- Bad turbo
- Bad BOV
- Cracked intercooler end tank and/or intercooler weld
- Split/torn/cracked charge pipe
- Hole rubbed in charge pipe
- Charge pipe or vacuum line not hooked up at all
We want you to get the most out of your car during our tuning process, which is why our tuner makes sure to inform you about the boost leaks that he sees in your logs. We hope that this article helps narrow down your search for some possible boost issues!